20 - 22 May 2016
Hiking Yapster style
Rock up into town. Get approached by some random geezer asking if I want to go hiking. Agree a price. Discreetly hand over a massive wad of cash in crisp American notes. Watch geezer walk off. Hope that you will see them again.
DAY 1
About a two hour drive from Gondar lies Debark, the start of the Simiens. From there we collected 2 young French guys trekking with me, so I wasn't going to be alone.
My new American friend was joining me for the day and then would return to Gondor as I continued on.
Our guide was called Ginbie and he was a really sound guy. Before we set off we had to pick up supplies and also a scout. What is a scout? He's basically a man with a gun who just follows us around 'protecting' us. The guns they carry are ancient. I seriously doubt they have ever used their gun!
The hike itself wasn't too difficult. It's the elevation that got me as we were over 3200m above sea level. At this height and also being close to the equator the sun is pretty strong so I just sported a very fetching headgear combo. I found it hard to catch my breath. The views were spectacular though.
After a few hours my American friend left and we continued on to camp.
At camp we just chilled out and played cards.
We didn't see many stars as the moon was too bright.
DAY 2
I had spent the night in a communal sleeping hut with 3 other men. It was seriously dark inside but really comfortable. I was glad I had brought my head torch and silk liner to cover myself with. My silk liner sees me through everything and way better than a sleeping bag.
We hiked about 14km and it was really nice although the sun was pretty intense. There were lots of ups and downs and the altitude just killed me. We had climbed to around 3500m. Everyone was far stronger than me and it felt like they were running ahead of me. They were like mountain goats. I struggled to keep up. Luckily the scout stayed with me or else I would have lost my way.
Highlights:
- Paddling in a mountain spring
- Watching a beautiful sunset with the gelada monkeys
-drinking gin with the locals as they struggled to say my name. I told them I had the same name as Jennifer Lopez, but they had no idea who I was talking about. It's pretty fantastic that western pop culture hasn't reached here!
Lowlights:
- going through a village with no road access, to be told that the village was being forced to move to the next biggest town, Debark. In one years time, if you chose to visit the Simiens, the village will no longer exist.
DAY 3
After a really windy and rainy night, I awoke to find the sun shining. I was then called to come outside as there was a Simien wolf outside. It is incredibly rare. I think there are only 50-60 left in the area. What a sight to wake up to!
We just did a short trek, climbing close to 4000m. As usual the guys were super fast and bombed off ahead of me as I huffed and puffed after them. I have no shame and will use my age as an excuse. I just can't keep up with young 20 something year olds! And my poor knees ;-)
We said our goodbyes and got a ride back to Gondor. However, on the way back our driver and his mate stopped to pick up Khat and just ate the stuff all the way back and insisted we all join them in getting high as well. I'm not so sure how safe it was for our driver to drive whilst high. I think the khat made me too chilled out to really care.
I packed almost nothing to go hiking - My toothbrush and, I hate to admit it, wet wipes. (I know, I cheated.) After 3 days without a shower I probably smell pretty bad, but it's quite liberating to just 'let go'.
Hiking Yapster style
Rock up into town. Get approached by some random geezer asking if I want to go hiking. Agree a price. Discreetly hand over a massive wad of cash in crisp American notes. Watch geezer walk off. Hope that you will see them again.
_____________________________
DAY 1
About a two hour drive from Gondar lies Debark, the start of the Simiens. From there we collected 2 young French guys trekking with me, so I wasn't going to be alone.
My new American friend was joining me for the day and then would return to Gondor as I continued on.
![]() |
| Selfie stick action. Not mine, I'd like to add. |
Our guide was called Ginbie and he was a really sound guy. Before we set off we had to pick up supplies and also a scout. What is a scout? He's basically a man with a gun who just follows us around 'protecting' us. The guns they carry are ancient. I seriously doubt they have ever used their gun!
![]() |
| Scouts holding their guns |
![]() |
| Scouts enjoying a break |
The hike itself wasn't too difficult. It's the elevation that got me as we were over 3200m above sea level. At this height and also being close to the equator the sun is pretty strong so I just sported a very fetching headgear combo. I found it hard to catch my breath. The views were spectacular though.
![]() |
| That's one way to protect oneself from the sun. Who needs sunblock? |
At camp we just chilled out and played cards.
We didn't see many stars as the moon was too bright.
![]() |
| Sleeping hut |
![]() |
| This place is like the Hilton. The fanciest loos I have ever used! |
DAY 2
I had spent the night in a communal sleeping hut with 3 other men. It was seriously dark inside but really comfortable. I was glad I had brought my head torch and silk liner to cover myself with. My silk liner sees me through everything and way better than a sleeping bag.
![]() |
| Hey sleeping beauty. Waking up from my wonderful slumber. I look amazing! Yikes! |
![]() |
| Up, up and away |
![]() |
| Yes, those are my shoes |
We hiked about 14km and it was really nice although the sun was pretty intense. There were lots of ups and downs and the altitude just killed me. We had climbed to around 3500m. Everyone was far stronger than me and it felt like they were running ahead of me. They were like mountain goats. I struggled to keep up. Luckily the scout stayed with me or else I would have lost my way.
Highlights:
- Paddling in a mountain spring
- Watching a beautiful sunset with the gelada monkeys
-drinking gin with the locals as they struggled to say my name. I told them I had the same name as Jennifer Lopez, but they had no idea who I was talking about. It's pretty fantastic that western pop culture hasn't reached here!
![]() |
| Gelda monkey |
![]() |
| Lots of gelda monkeys |
![]() |
| Gelda monkeys at sunset |
![]() |
| Watching the sunset. It was pretty chilly |
- going through a village with no road access, to be told that the village was being forced to move to the next biggest town, Debark. In one years time, if you chose to visit the Simiens, the village will no longer exist.
![]() |
| Scenery #1 |
![]() |
| Scenery #2 |
![]() |
| Scenery #3 - this time with horses |
DAY 3
After a really windy and rainy night, I awoke to find the sun shining. I was then called to come outside as there was a Simien wolf outside. It is incredibly rare. I think there are only 50-60 left in the area. What a sight to wake up to!
![]() |
| Can barely see it, but there is an Ethiopian wolf in the photo. |
We just did a short trek, climbing close to 4000m. As usual the guys were super fast and bombed off ahead of me as I huffed and puffed after them. I have no shame and will use my age as an excuse. I just can't keep up with young 20 something year olds! And my poor knees ;-)
![]() |
| Cattle, so much cattle |
We said our goodbyes and got a ride back to Gondor. However, on the way back our driver and his mate stopped to pick up Khat and just ate the stuff all the way back and insisted we all join them in getting high as well. I'm not so sure how safe it was for our driver to drive whilst high. I think the khat made me too chilled out to really care.
![]() |
| Big bag of khat for the 2 hour ride back. It was all finished and a second bag of khat came out. |
I packed almost nothing to go hiking - My toothbrush and, I hate to admit it, wet wipes. (I know, I cheated.) After 3 days without a shower I probably smell pretty bad, but it's quite liberating to just 'let go'.



















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