Lalibela

 15 May 2016

I hired a guide called Misgan for the day.  Early start. 5am. As it is Sunday, I wanted to check out Ethiopian Orthodox Mass and they like to start early!

I was made to wear a white shawl to cover myself. Everyone wears white. It was still dark but you could hear chanting in the distant. As we made our way through the dark streets the chanting got louder and you could see lots of people, a sea of white.

Got my scarf on all wrong!!

As we neared the ancient rock hewn church, we had to make our way through these tunnels that had been carved through rock. There were people everywhere - praying/chanting.

It was very surreal. So much chanting, kneeling, people being blessed with the cross of David. I was made to kiss a cross.

This is the chanting room/area. These men lead the chanting and drumming

I have seen Greek orthodox christians perform ceremonies before in the Middle East, but this was something else. Its the setting inside a giant rock that does it I think. Nothing fancy or glitzy. No seats. We had to sit on the floor or stand. I can imagine it being just like this, no change going back centuries. The smell of inscence was overwhelming.

I was sat down and then they placed a dead body on a gurney next to me covered head to toe in a shroud I KID YOU NOT! Okay, I exaggerate. It is all true but the dead part. They were not dead. It was actually an incredibly sick person all covered up head to toe, like they were dead. Couldn't see their face. I had to keep looking to make sure I could see its chest moving. It was really grim having to sit next to this body for over 2 hours. I didnt photograph it but I did a video and I swear you will think its a dead body! These things always happen to me!

Mass dragged on for 2 hours. Lots of standing up, sitting down, chanting. I had a nun on the other side of me (dead body other side) and she kept telling me off for my headscarf not being on right. I wanted to sleep so bad but I didnt want to be an ignorant China lady so had to concentrate so hard.

After mass. All congregate outside

Random photo with a priest

My guide Misgan

Side view of St Georges church

After mass Misgan and I walked around part of the church complex. In daylight I could now see what the big deal was about these amazing churches. They are cut downwards through rock literally meters deep (some 10 meters deep) and that is why the churches are underground. And the rocks are seriously hard rock. Now imagine men digging through this with just hammer and chisels (and supposedly the help of angels) in the 11th century. That is seriously impressive.

Top view of St George's church, cut into the ground